Welcome to Part I of my October tutorial!  Before we begin, let me apologize for not getting the tutorial up earlier… I had a draft post done but I guess my internet connection had other things that it wanted to be doing!  I will be drawing a name this afternoon for our September assignment and will announce the winner tomorrow in my Part II post!

This month, we’re going to be talking more about shutter speeds.  Just as we can set our shutter speeds to stop an action in time, we can also set them for longer periods to let in more light.  Of course, in using a longer shutter speed, a tripod or steady surface may be needed, depending on the speed.  You will also need a still subject!

As with many situations, your best bet is to take a few trial settings to see which will work the best.  Start by setting your lens at its’ widest aperture (i.e. lowest number).  Depending on your lens, this can range from f/4 down to f/1.4 (or lower, if you are saavy like this gentleman!)  Then try a few different shutter speeds until you find the proper exposure.  This is assuming that you are using full manual mode on your DSLR.  If you prefer, you can set your camera to Aperture Priority at the widest aperture and let the camera figure out your shutter speed.  As always, first consult your manual for more information pertaining to your own individual camera.

Remember, if your shutter speed is more than the reciprocal of your lens’ focal length, it’s almost always mandatory to use a tripod or stable surface to prevent camera shake.  That is to say, if you are using a 50mm lens, the slowest shutter speed you can confidently use handheld would be 1/60.  Similarly, if you are using a 70mm-200mm lens and are zoomed in to 200mm, you should probably use a shutter speed for anything slower than 1/250 for best results.  If your camera lens has the image stabilization feature, you may be able to stretch that a few stops but for a sharp image, your best bet is a tripod or flat surface.

A technique that many professional photographers use is called bracketing.  To do so, simply take three photos – one at the recommended shutter speed, one above and one below.  For example, if your shutter speed is 1/15 sec., then you can “bracket” your shots and also photograph your subect at 1/8 sec. and 1/30 sec.  This covers a range to ensure that the best exposure is taken.

Another factor that can affect the results of low-light photography is the speed of your lens.  Most standard camera kit lens have a speed of f/4 -f/5.6.  Using a faster lens, such as an f/1.8, you can use a faster shutter speed to reduce movement and blur, especially if your subject is animate.  In the following photos, I photographed my son, using my Nikkor 50mm AF f/1.8 lens.  Using a flash, I photographed him next to a candle.  Note the harsh shadows and flat lighting, not to mention the telltale catchlights from the flash in his eyes.

Taken with Nikon D70, 50mm f/1.8 lens at f/2.8, 1/60 sec. ISO 200

But by using a slower shutter speed and my tripod, I was able to catch this photo of him, in candlelight.  I love the glow of the candle, and the warmth of the lighting.

Taken with Nikon D70, 50mm f1.8 lens at f/1.8, 1 sec. ISO 200

Let’s just overlook the expression of “I’d rather be anywhere else” for a moment…

Note that the image is not as sharp as it could be – this is due to the fact that it was difficult for Connor to sit completely still without the slightest movement.  To avoid this, I would have had to use a faster shutter speed, but since I was already at the widest aperture of f/1.8, I would have been unable to achieve the same exposure. 

So what to do in that situation?  Check back tomorrow for more info and your October assignment!

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