December Assignment: Bokeh

Bokeh, as we learned, is derived from a Japanese word, boke, which means “blur” or “haze”.  It basically refers to the out of focus area of your photo.

So now that we know what it is… how do we get it?  It’s quite simple, actually!

To create pleasing bokeh, ensure that your background has some light sources.  It could be Christmas lights, car headlights, or even dappled sunlight behind your subject, like this:

(Taken with Nikon D70 at F/4.2, 1/320 s., ISO 200)

Then, using a very large aperture (meaning the smallest number, like f/1.8 or f/4.5, depending on your lens), focus on something in the foreground of your composed photo.  The short depth of field, created by your large aperture, will blur the background and create bokeh!

I told you it was easy! 

Your December assignment:

Using this tutorial as a guide, create your own bokeh background.  Experiment with different light sources and backgrounds. With Christmas around the corner, I’m sure you’ll find plenty of inspiration!

Deadline:  December 31st, 2009

Please submit your photo(s), along with camera settings, using our submission form linked above, for a chance to be entered into our draw.  A randomly chosen entry will be drawn after the deadline.  Please click HERE to review the rules regarding this draw before submitting.  Please note – submissions that do not abide by these rules will NOT be posted on the blog, or entered into the drawing.

Our December prize pack is this lovely seasonal kit by Kelly Panacci:

Thanks in advance for playing along this month – I’m looking forward to seeing your submissions!  And stay tuned for more information about our contest to be posted early next week!

Happy Clicking!

November Assignment: Light Graffiti

This month, I am going to talk about a technique that uses long shutter speeds and white or coloured lights.  This technique is called light painting, sometimes referred to as light graffiti.  But despite the current nomenclature, this technique has been around for many years.  Gjon Mili, a freelance photographer for Life magazine from 1939 to his death in 1984, was one of the first to capture light graffiti. 

In 1945, these photos of figure skater Carol Lynne were published in the March 26th issue of Life Magazine:

The effects of her movements were illustrated by flashlights that were affixed to the skates, and he creates the images using stroboscopic light.  It was this series of photos that he showed to Picasso in 1949 that inspired Picasso to impulsively create this “space drawing” of The Centaur:

We can easily experiment with light painting with very little equipment:

Camera
Whether you choose to use film or digital is your choice, depending on what is available to you.  Digital will offer “instant gratification” but film may be used.  Regardless of your choice, your camera must have long exposure availability.

Tripod/Steady surface
Because light graffiti requires extremely long exposure times, you will require a tripod or steady surface for your camera.  A remote control, while not required, will reduce further camera shake.

Light Source
There is a wide array of light sources that can be used to light paint.  Not only are there keychains with LED lights in many colours, but other items to use can include laser pointers, Glow poi (as photographed below), glowsticks, lighters, candles, car head and tail lights, sparklers, fireworks, flashlights, bike lights – use your imagination! 

(Photo by Hendrik Kueck, using Sony DSC-W1 at f/2.8, 10 sec., ISO 200)

Let’s paint!

Set up your tripod and make sure that it is secure and level, especially if you are photographing outdoors.  Remember, your location needs to be very dark – inside the house in a dark room (make sure there is no secondary light source from a window or other room) or outside, away from street lights and cars!

Set your aperture to the smallest setting (i.e. the largest number – usually f/22) to allow the least amount of light in.

Your shutter speed will depend on the effect that you are seeking.  The longer the shutter speed, the more light effects will appear.  Experiment with different times – this is where digital comes in handy! 

Once you press the shutter, begin to “paint”.  You can draw images using various coloured lights or just randomly squiggle a light for a cool effect – again, just experiment! 

A few things to remember:

1)   With a long exposure, you will see your image in the photo if you remain static.  To lessen the effect, move quickly and do not linger in one spot for very long.
2)  The same holds true to lights – try to keep the light always moving to avoid bright points of light, unless that is the effect you want.
3)  Have fun!!

Toxel.com has 20 incredible examples of light graffiti here and you can click here to see incredible works by the famous German group, Lichtfaktor.  Another light graffiti artist, Michael Bosanko, has some jaw-dropping examples on his website, as well.

Now that you are inspired, are you ready for some Hands On Photography practice?

Your November assignment:

Using this tutorial as a guide, create your own light graffiti.  Experiment with your light sources and shutter speeds to achieve different results.

Deadline: November 30th, 2009

 Please submit your photo(s), along with camera settings, using our submission form linked above for a chance to be entered into our draw.  A randomly chosen entry will be drawn after the deadline.  Please click here to review the rules regarding this draw before submitting.  Please note – submissions that do not include camera settings will NOT be posted on the blog, or entered into the drawing.

ETA: When submitting your photo, please include a brief description of what you used so we can see the different effects of varying light sources!

Please stay tuned for more information about our November prize package!

Thanks for playing along this month – can’t wait to see your submissions!  And watch for our Winter 2009/10 issue of Canadian Scrapbooker, coming to newstands and mailboxes near you in December!

Happy Clicking!

October Tutorial: Shutter Speeds and ISO (Part II)

As you work on your assignment, you may notice, as you test various shutter speeds, that something happens.  As discussed in a previous issue of Canadian Scrapbooker, you know that the shutter speed and f/stop change correlatively; that is to say, as your shutter speed increases, your f/stop decreases.  Remember the glass of water/running tap analogy I used?  To recap, if it takes 30 seconds to fill a glass of water with the tap barely open, and 10 seconds to fill with the tap opened wide, logic concludes that it would take 20 seconds to fill it with the tap open halfway.  Shutter speed and aperture works the same way.

But there’s another aspect to photography that can affect the outcome of your photos: ISO.

ISO, thanks to www.dictionary.com, is described as “the numerical exposure index of a photographic film under the system adopted by the International Standardization Organization, used to indicate the light sensitivity of the film’s emulsion.” 

Back in the days of film, you could choose films of various ISOs (or sometimes refered to as ASA (American Standards Association), depending on your subject.  For example, generally ISO 100 was used for standard outdoor or indoor flash photos, while many professional sports photographers used film with ISO 800 or 1600.  The higher the ISO rating, the more sensitive the film was to light.  The trade off was that the resulting photos had higher contrast and grain.

In digital photography, we can use ISO as part of the equation with shutter speed and f/stop to control our image results.  Using a higher ISO will increase the amount of light that will reach the image sensor, and in turn, decrease the shutter speed.  You know how shutter speeds increase approximately double each time (i.e. 1/60 s., 1/125 s., 1/250 s., 1/500 s., etc…)?*   Well, ISOs are the same way – and they basically double the amount of light that enters the camera with each increase.  The same results occur when using a higher ISO – except what appeared as grain in film, is referred to as “noise” in digital photography.

* These are standard shutter speeds correlating to film.  Many cameras today have included 1/3 stops - for example:  1/500 s., 1/400 s., 1/320 s., 1/125 s., etc.

So, to illustrate, let’s go back to Part I and look at Figure 2. 

Taken with Nikon D70, 50mm f1.8 lens at f/1.8, 1 sec. ISO 200

With camera settings of F/1.8, 1 sec. and ISO 200, I was at my widest aperture for my 50mm prime lens.  To achieve the same exposure, but with a faster shutter speed, my only option would be to adjust the ISO setting.

By changing my ISO from 200 to 400, I am doubling the amount of light that enters the camera.  Therefore, I can change decrease my shutter speed to 1/2 sec. and achieve the same result.  Remember that as more light enters the camera, the shutter does not have to stay open as long. 

(Please note – I would have had an example for you, but my son decided that he had had enough of being a model for the time being… )

The following settings would offer the same exposure:
original setting:  ISO 200, f/1.8, 1 second
option 1:  ISO 400, f/1.8, 1/2 second
option 2: ISO 800, f/1.8, 1/4 second
option 3: ISO 1600, f/1.8, 1/8 second
option 4: ISO 3200, f/1.8, 1/15 second

The important thing to remember is that while the above settings result in the same exposure, the amount of noise in the image would increase with each ISO change.

Many cameras allow you to set the ISO to automatic, in which it will change the ISO, depending on the amount of light available.  To avoid this, check your camera’s manual – you can change this setting to set it yourself for each photo.  Just remember to change it back to ISO 100 or ISO 200 for everyday photos to avoid “noisy” photos!

So, are you ready for some Hands On Photography practice?

Your October assignment:

Using a slow shutter speed, or a combination of a wide aperture, slow shutter speed and change of ISO, capture a nighttime or low light image. Try using candlelight or even moonlight (with a long shutter speed!).  Use your imagination for your subject and composition, and don’t forget – the beauty of digital is that you can try many different settings!  Don’t forget to bracket your exposures for the best results.

Deadline:  October 31st, 2009

 Please submit your photo(s), along with camera settings, using our submission form only (also linked above) for a chance to be entered into our draw. A randomly chosen entry will be drawn on November 1st, 2009 and the winner will be posted within a few days of the draw!  Please click here to review the rules regarding this draw before submitting.

Please stay tuned for more information about our October prize package!

Thanks for playing along this month, and be sure to join us on November 1st, when we will talk about having fun with light and long exposures!

Happy Clicking,

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October Tutorial: Slow Shutter Speeds (Part I)

Welcome to Part I of my October tutorial!  Before we begin, let me apologize for not getting the tutorial up earlier… I had a draft post done but I guess my internet connection had other things that it wanted to be doing!  I will be drawing a name this afternoon for our September assignment and will announce the winner tomorrow in my Part II post!

This month, we’re going to be talking more about shutter speeds.  Just as we can set our shutter speeds to stop an action in time, we can also set them for longer periods to let in more light.  Of course, in using a longer shutter speed, a tripod or steady surface may be needed, depending on the speed.  You will also need a still subject!

As with many situations, your best bet is to take a few trial settings to see which will work the best.  Start by setting your lens at its’ widest aperture (i.e. lowest number).  Depending on your lens, this can range from f/4 down to f/1.4 (or lower, if you are saavy like this gentleman!)  Then try a few different shutter speeds until you find the proper exposure.  This is assuming that you are using full manual mode on your DSLR.  If you prefer, you can set your camera to Aperture Priority at the widest aperture and let the camera figure out your shutter speed.  As always, first consult your manual for more information pertaining to your own individual camera.

Remember, if your shutter speed is more than the reciprocal of your lens’ focal length, it’s almost always mandatory to use a tripod or stable surface to prevent camera shake.  That is to say, if you are using a 50mm lens, the slowest shutter speed you can confidently use handheld would be 1/60.  Similarly, if you are using a 70mm-200mm lens and are zoomed in to 200mm, you should probably use a shutter speed for anything slower than 1/250 for best results.  If your camera lens has the image stabilization feature, you may be able to stretch that a few stops but for a sharp image, your best bet is a tripod or flat surface.

A technique that many professional photographers use is called bracketing.  To do so, simply take three photos – one at the recommended shutter speed, one above and one below.  For example, if your shutter speed is 1/15 sec., then you can “bracket” your shots and also photograph your subect at 1/8 sec. and 1/30 sec.  This covers a range to ensure that the best exposure is taken.

Another factor that can affect the results of low-light photography is the speed of your lens.  Most standard camera kit lens have a speed of f/4 -f/5.6.  Using a faster lens, such as an f/1.8, you can use a faster shutter speed to reduce movement and blur, especially if your subject is animate.  In the following photos, I photographed my son, using my Nikkor 50mm AF f/1.8 lens.  Using a flash, I photographed him next to a candle.  Note the harsh shadows and flat lighting, not to mention the telltale catchlights from the flash in his eyes.

Taken with Nikon D70, 50mm f/1.8 lens at f/2.8, 1/60 sec. ISO 200

But by using a slower shutter speed and my tripod, I was able to catch this photo of him, in candlelight.  I love the glow of the candle, and the warmth of the lighting.

Taken with Nikon D70, 50mm f1.8 lens at f/1.8, 1 sec. ISO 200

Let’s just overlook the expression of “I’d rather be anywhere else” for a moment…

Note that the image is not as sharp as it could be – this is due to the fact that it was difficult for Connor to sit completely still without the slightest movement.  To avoid this, I would have had to use a faster shutter speed, but since I was already at the widest aperture of f/1.8, I would have been unable to achieve the same exposure. 

So what to do in that situation?  Check back tomorrow for more info and your October assignment!

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September’s Assignment

Submission deadline: September 30, 2009

Welcome to our new Hands On! section here at Canadian Scrapbooker! I’m so excited to be working on this new adventure and I promise we will have a lot of fun on the way!

As I mentioned in my article in the Fall 2009 issue of Canadian Scrapbooker, each month, I will offer some tips and techniques on the basics discussed in the current issue, plus I will post an assignment! You are invited to share your completed assignments here in our blog – each assignment completed and uploaded earns you a chance to win a prize from our sponsor.

This month’s sponsor is Rose Moka (www.rosemoka.com). Upload your photo assignment here for a chance to win this great prize package.

We’ve all tried to capture the action with our cameras – sometimes successfully, other times not! There are several methods to help freeze movement and create a sharp, clearly defined image. Using a faster shutter speed is one of the easiest methods.

When we shorten our exposure time, we minimize the time that the action has to be recorded, and as such, reduce the chance of blurring. Consider the following photos:

Fig 1: Photo by Jessi Lute, using a Canon EOS Digital Rebel Xsi, 70.0 – 300.0 mm lens, f/22, 1/125 sec, no flash.

In the first photo, Jessi chose a relatively slow shutter speed, considering the speed of her subject. Notice how the subject is blurred – this is due to the fact that it is moving faster than the time lapse before the shutter closed again.

Fig 2: Photo by Jessi Lute, using a Canon EOS Digital Rebel Xsi, 70.0 – 300.0 mm lens, f/7.0, 1/1250 sec, no flash.

But notice what happened in Fig. 2, when Jessi decreased her exposure time to a mere 1/1250th of a second! She effectively froze time so that she could capture her subject in crisp detail.

Shortened exposure times are not just limited to sports. In the following photos, Holly effectively captured a waterfall scene at two different exposure times. In Fig 3, a longer exposure time of 1/15th of a second elicits a sense of serenity and movement, while a shutter speed of 1/120th of a second captures the drama and power of the water falling (Fig. 4)

Fig 3: Photo by Holly Attfield, using a Nikon D70s, 18.0 – 70.0 mm f/3.5-4.5 lens. f/29, 1/15 sec, no flash.

Fig 4: Photo by Holly Attfield, using a Nikon D70s, 18.0 – 70.0 mm f/3.5-4.5 lens. f/9, 1/200 sec, no flash.

So, are you ready for some Hands On Photography practice?

Your September assignment:

Using a fast shutter speed, effectively capture action or movement in a photo. Try stopping the action on a football field, or capture your child tossing leaves in the air. Use your imagination for your subject and composition, and don’t be afraid to try different settings.

Deadline: September 30th, 2009

Please submit your photo(s), along with camera settings, using our submission form linked above for a chance to be entered into our draw. A randomly chosen entry will be drawn on December 5th, 2009   October 1st, 2009.

Thanks for playing along this month, and be sure to join us on October 1st, when we will tackle the opposite side of the coin – slow exposure times!

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